Several months ago I watched a news program on the FNX TV station (FNX stands for First Nations Experience. It's the Native American PBS channel that I wrote about here). It had a segment on Indian mounds in southern Wisconsin. These are mounds of earth built by the Woodland Indians between 500 BC and 1200 AD. They were used for rituals, and were often built in the shape of animals. There used to be lots and lots of them, but most have been destroyed; the few that remain have been designated historical sites.
Then, a few weeks before my birthday, I encountered the topic of Indian mounds again. This time it was an article by Gregory Little, who's written several books on the topic. The article mentioned some of the major mounds in the U.S., including Cahokia in southern Illinois and the Serpent Mound in southern Ohio.
When it came time for my birthday last month, I wanted to do something fun and unique. So, based on the events above, I decided to explore the mounds in southern Wisconsin. I searched online until I found a review (here) of the Wisconsin mounds that were worth checking out. Of the 4 it recommended, 2 were only a short drive away! And according to Google Maps, we'd drive by another mounds site on the way to those two.
So on a sunny Saturday after my birthday, we packed a cooler with food (crackers, egg salad, pimento cheese, and sugar snap peas) and drove north.
Effigy Mounds Preserve in Whitewater, WI
This was our first stop. It was a small forested area right next to a subdivision. The mounds weren't very big, and were somewhat hard to make out among the vegetation, but I think this was my favorite of our stops. There was no one else there, and the area was beautiful and peaceful. There were markers next to each mound with more information. And there were signs from the Ho-Chunk tribe saying this is a sacred place, and to "Please respect this area as you would your place of worship."
A couple interesting things I learned from the markers:
- Some of the mounds were aligned with celestial events, like the rising of a star or constellation on a certain day. One in particular was oriented to Polaris, the North Star.
- The soil used to make the mounds is not from the area. It was carried there in baskets, from other sacred sites.
The only downside to these mounds was the mosquitoes. Fortunately, I put on bug spray before going in, so it wasn't too bad. Wendy didn't, though, and she fled to the car shortly after we started the trail.
Aztalan State Park
Our second stop had the fewest, but by far the most impressive, mounds. Since it was part of the Wisconsin State Park system, we had to pay an $11 out-of-state fee, which seemed excessive. But I suppose it is for a good cause.
The first thing we did was find a picnic table and eat lunch (the egg salad was delicious!). The whole area was wide open, and there was a nice breeze. Afterwards we walked all along the trails, and climbed to the top of the mounds. There was also a large, reconstructed log fence, which apparently had shielded the public from religious ceremonies.
One of the small mounds nearby, which was excavated long ago, contained a female skeleton with many ornate beads and shells. It was dubbed the "Princess Burial Mound". For a while, the skeleton and beads were on display at the Milwaukee Public Museum, but apparently the exhibit was taken down due to sensitivity over Native American burial rights. I've read that some Native Americans have demanded the remains be re-buried at Aztalan.
Koshkonong Mounds
This was our third and final stop. There were a dozen or so small mounds in the shape of various animals, although most of the shapes didn't look much like an animal, to be honest. The brochure did say that the best way to view the mounds is from above. Just like our first stop, there was a sign from the Ho-Chunk tribe saying this is an ancient burial and religious site, and to please respect it as you would your place of worship.
Unfortunately, this was the least enjoyable of our stops. The mosquitoes were out in full force, despite our bug spray, and we were getting tired. We took a quick hike along the trail, snapped a few pictures, and decided to call it a day.
That was our mounds-exploration trip. Overall, it was a decent way to spend a beautiful day. I would consider visiting mounds further north in Wisconsin, but definitely not during mosquito season!